LCM: THE HEAVENS OPEN AT TOPMAN’S AW2014 SHOW!

Dark. Dank. Devoid of sound.

Booooom!!!

The edgy power of John Cooper Clarke cuts through the ether…His weighty words, doused in a Lancashire accent, darting rhythmically about like vocal strobes.

The spoken word hits a crescendo, his last line held in the air, embraced by nothingness.

Within seconds, action ensues, as mist-for-lighting announces the dawn in Topman’s LCM showspace. An industrial location is revealed, with a concrete catwalk, dressed, intermittently, in pools of water and as deep, electronica replaces the solo, the first model, with already-drenched hair, turns the corner into this brick-clad world of ‘Wuthering Heights’, breaking the modern-day barrenness with an opening AW14 look.

Black literally set the tone, represented by substantial, single-breasted, over-sized, overcoats, such as the duffel, with a popular toggle-fastening and their double-breasted counterparts in waist-hitting jackets. PVC bonded to ‘notch’-lapels, patch-pockets and block-hems, added textural impact to the round-shouldered silhouettes, which skulked the pass. ‘Wet-look’ variations-on-the-theme would be presented in high-shine, lacquered-leather separates, impressively accentuating apparel in shape, form and line, whilst also defining details through such simple, yet effective, techniques as piping. Within this section, the colour propostions mirrored the autumnal palettes of moss-meadow green and mushroom, with red-based plaid shirts and tassled jackets (echoing the cowboy-themed SS14 motif), acting as the flash of sunlight, breaking free upon the moorland.  Knitwear was rugged. At times, no-nonsense, with exaggerated, chin-cupping roll-necks, in open, cable and honeycomb weaves, resembling stylised fishing-nets…At others, given lozenge-beading and bouclé, to revisit pops-of-colour and to add surface characteristics.

Yet stronger spectral statements flooded onto sumptuous, full-length coats, in blazing orange, with matching, ‘jazzed-up’, ‘zoot-suit-style’ pants, voluminous and billowing against the strength-of-momentum with which the models strode through the venue. The pieces were also to be reprised in baby-blue pastel, a further homage to the tonal story, which has played a starring role in the sartorial spring/summer repertoire of many a design-house. The next seasonal trend-transition to be encapsulated, was the see-through mac, of long and short dimensions. Layered alongside these key advents into eye-catching shades, they complemented the story, with a revealing twist. Signature tailoring, for which the brand has become so higly-recognised and revered, featured in juxtaposed fashion to the drop-shouldered, full-pant ensembles, instead shown as straight-lined, straight-legged, suiting, in shipyard-slate and charcoal-greys, ever-echoing the ‘working-men’ of the past.

With the last look of black roll-neck, oversized, three-quarter length, matt, PVC coat and glistening liquid-look trousers, the Topman AW14 Collection had brought us to the end of our tour-of-the moors….or so it seemed…The last hurrah was an indoor downpour of rain, which fell upon the models as they walked the finale! It was an other-worldly end to a show which was typical of a collaboration, headed by the ebullient Gordon Richardson, and backed by an amazing design-team who know exactly who their ‘man’ is. To me, he’s a powerful, passionate, hardworking, salt-of-the-earth, modern-day Heathcliff and he wants his clothing to express that!

In the inimitable words of John Cooper Clark, ‘There’s apparel, Jim, but not as we know it!’* and when this distinctive collection hits the stores, you’ll see exactly what he means!

  http://www.londoncollections.co.uk/ ~ http://www.topman.com/

*Excerpt from ‘TOP MAN’ by John Cooper Clark

©AFROW2014-2019 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

‘STYLE HAPPENS SOONER, ON ‘LATER’!’

We have a lot to thank Mr Jools Holland for! Not only does he bring us the most eclectic of live, global musical offerings, from established and emerging artists, alike, but with them, come a plethora of stand-out, sartorial selections, from the style-spectrum! For instance, you’re as likely to see and hear the hauntingly melodic, ‘Amadou and Mariam’, bedecked in bold, traditional Malian dress, playing in the-round, as you are the infectiously-anthemic synth-pop of ‘M.T’, in their eponymous multi-coloured, tie-dye-tees!

Case-in-point has to be a recent episode, featuring, Goldfrapp, James Blake, Franz Ferdinand and Kanye West!

 Backlit in a pure-gold aura and engulfed, full-length, in a column of black chiffon-drapery, the ever-ethereal, Alison Goldfrapp, held the audience, spell-bound with her melifluously reed-like, vocal perfomance of ‘Annabel’. The timeless gown, simultaneously, captured her effortless, idiosyncratic grace, whilst also paying homage to SS14 runways, with its pintuck-peephole bodice.

The unnervingly-talented James Blake delivered an equally-classy rendition of the stunning ‘Retrograde’. With hair, windswept, in defiance of the stillness generated by his unfolding-wall-of sound, he was an example of understated style, surrendering to sonic substance. In a ‘1-800 Dinosaur’ T-shirt-and-jeans ensemble, Blake also seamlessly combined product-placement of his new record label and a pinpoint performance, with ease and flair.

In stark juxtaposition, was the riff and quiff-friendly, Franz Ferdinand. Already well-known for their unique fashion statements including the sharpest of Savile Row-silhouettes, the band showed that they had lost none of their couture-creativity, teaming the gusto of, lyrically, ‘right words’ with the ‘right action’ of donning fashion-forward Hawaiian-prints with rock-a-billy attitude! Very D-Squared-2!

Kanye West’s performance of ‘Bound To’, with the outstanding ‘Uncle’ Charlie (Gap Band) Wilson, more-than-referenced the fact that he had graduated, magna-cum-laude, from the School-of-FROW! The ‘College Drop-Out’ star stamped his artistic authority on the programme, with all of the swagger for which we have come to love him. Punctuating the pitch-black studio with dramatic spotlighting, which served to accente his choice of a laid-back, layering trend, a play-on-neutrals of black ribbed-tee and low-slung, loose-fit, trousers, was complemented by a three-quarter length, khaki parka and desert boots in a pop-of-camel-colour. The entire look was topped-off by the trademark, heavy-gold, diamond-set, belcher-link chain, de rigueur for ushering in SS14’s metallic forecast! Uncle Charlie was certainly in-the-house, with his own, distinguished, take on double-denim, accessorizing with shades, as blacked-out as the windows on a one-off, customised Bugatti! It was, undoubtedly, a fitting backdrop to the soaring, silky-smooth, vocal-runs and devastating musical prowess of such a living-legend of U.S Funk/R&B!

So, the next time you tune into ‘Later… with Jools Holland’, keep an eye out for a new class of ‘artist-interpretations’… I think you’ll find that, on closer inspection, they are, in fact, rather more original!

©AFROW2013-2019 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

NATIONAL POETRY DAY: ‘FROM THE GROUND UP’…

In honour of National Poetry Day on Thursday 3rd October, I was inspired to write ‘From The Ground Up’ as my response to the wonderful collision of SS14 collections which flooded the Fashion Week Season!  Enjoy!

‘From the ground up, heels consider terrain,

pray to tack themselves with metronomic ease,

as liquid -metal oozes through the throat of uplit night.

Levers arc themselves into their vanishing points,

sometimes straining, clutching dignity.

Everso insistently, they turn and point and pause.

With poise the heaving decadence of polish steels the quakes,

relinquishing the mantle to the modern prose of angles,

ragged in its promise, doused in breathless, gaping wonder.

Hoisted gestures joust with grandeur,

wander, rogueishly, towards the brink of either wing.

Balance in the battle of the woven majesty.

Stand-to-attention!

Prise the dividend of faith from mental sketches.

Present moments, hope for memories.

As the void returns, the vacuum fills new seasons with beginnings.’

©AFROW2013-2019 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

I’M A ‘FASHION-EAST-ER’!

If you went down to the London-Fashion-Week-woods on September 17th, you were in for a BIG surprise…especially if you happened to go via the ‘Fashion–East’-End!

I, excitedly, took that detour, and as if I’d fallen down a man-hole on Main Street, rather than that of a Wonderland-rabbit, I found myself entering whimsical world of Hong Kong designer, Ryan Lo! It was, indeed, a cordial welcome into a rich and textural tapestry of creations, with (spoiler alert!) anthropomorphic models, made-up to appear as fairytale-foxes and princess-pussycats, to name but a few!

 A veritable treasure-trove of vintage-lace appliqué, fluttered against knee-skimming skirts, whilst also being delicately-layered, as tie-string tops, in a kaleidoscope of watercolours, such as dusky-pink, sweet-pea blue and champagne-yellow. Tulle came full-length, in a peach-blossom frock, with ballet-flounces, frothing beneath a mid-length overcoat (complete with ‘tail’), in antique-gold-on-white, and would develop into a gorgeous gilet, which undulated like the rarest, underwater coral.

The knitwear-story was akin to turning the pages of the most vibrant pop-up book, EVER!!! Bubblegum-pink party-pieces were ousted by cardigans in kiwi-green, with a ‘moo-cow’ motif and chocolate-brown, with a fantastic farmyard-scene, a fresh-and-fruity, strawberry-strewn sweater/ mauve micro-mini ensemble and (my pièce de résistance) a full-length, lime-green, crocheted-cape, bursting with sunshine-marigolds in full-bloom!

Before I knew it, the collection had come full-circle, with the finale look of a soft, baby-pink-on-white, horizontal-striped coat, in a darling ‘trapeze’ silhouette…A fond farewell was given to the animal theme, in the guise of a huge, ‘pussy-bow’ neck-fastening and although it was his last word in the show, I’m getting more- than-an-inkling that, with his highly-skilled ability to emboss his unique vision upon the runway, Ryan Lo’s superstar-story has only just begun…

©AFROW2013-2019 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

ART-DECO ARTISTRY FROM THE HOUSE OF GUCCI!

Hands-up anyone who fancies some Great-Gatsby-for-grown-ups!! Well, be prepared to form a not-so-orderly queue, when the new Gucci SS2014 collections arrive!

Why the anticipated clamouring? Well, Frida Giannini has skilfully-crafted yet another selection of stellar couture creations, showcasing the best of art-deco artistry with the sass and sleekness, typical of the well-revered fashion house.

An uber-glossy, mirrored catwalk and a sonic refrain of ‘You’re walkin’ round like you’re bigger than Prince’, not only suggested the supreme polish and attitude of the pieces which were to come, but also indicated the confidence with which any woman should wear the garments!

As if emerging from the Tyrrhenian Sea after dark, feminine creatures with trademark wet-look, slicked-back hair and dewy, barely-there make-up, audaciously stalked the new season’s styles. Black, the go-to tone, was presented to us in dare-to-bare, mesh T-shirts, sheer bra-tops, loose-legged trousers, with the gentlest of tapers, flowing kaftans and elegant dresses, in both maxi and knee-lengths. Opaque options of the silhouettes included an evening dress with plunging v-neckline, a three-quarter length pant, loosely-tailored jacket with leather tuxedo-collar and a fabulous top, featuring an exaggerated cut-away, which roared ‘business-in-the-front and party-in-the-back’!

The print-story was a revelation, at times devouring entire columns of floating gowns and the most exceptional kaftans, in motifs of flaming orange, sunburst-gold and complementary cool lilacs, innovatively arranged like art-deco exo-skeletons. The designs relentlessly bombarded the senses, only giving way to iridescent echoes, such as slash-necked tunics in metallic bronze and gold, as well as oil-on-water-purple and raspberry-hues, flickering beneath the lights like a silent movie.

In fact, the entire affair was a powerful production…A perfect procession of trademark-Gucci: High-impact, high-visibility and oh-so-high fashion!!!

So, if I were you, I’d get a head-start to your nearest store because from the looks of this show, Gucci is going to be very busy!!!!!!

©AFROW2013-2019 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

DSQUARED2: IN CELEBRATION OF THE MOVIE-STAR SIREN!

As a designer, you know that a show has gone down a storm when howling whoops of delight are audible from both back and  front-of-house!! After today’s Dsquared2 show, the identical-twin design-team of Dean and Dan Caten must surely be shouting the loudest!

Forget that the event was running half-an-hour behind the scheduled time, the buzz of anticipation from an audience, the size of which was comparable to the Burberry attendance, was palpable!

With a brassy blast of Mambo Kings announcing the imminent arrival of some spectacular style, we knew that we were being set up to depart upon the fashion-ride of our lives!!

First up, was a splash of showroom footage, in which models were either being fitted and dressed in the collection, or were dancing with the designers, themselves, in a tiki-hut!! The brief glimpse served as a tantalising teaser to what was to follow….which was a pitch black auditorium and a pinched, female voice, with an American accent, regaling the finer points of elegance, as if delivering a Public Service Announcement!!!

Then BANG! With the camera done, it was lights and action, accompanied by Elvis Presley entering the building, as ‘Bossa Nova’ was siphoned through the super-speakers!! The scene was set with an elongated tiki-bar, complete with bow-tied bartender, a stretch of runway which extended like a record-breaking length of taffy and models, ready in their first looks, to powerwalk the pass!

Oh and what looks they were! The Dsquared2 woman positively oozed Sophia Loren-allure, with lashings of Brigitte Bardot-boldness and Diahann Carroll- decadence! The story started with bustier/ corset- bikinis, harking back to the moulded shapes of lingerie and beachwear of yesteryear, thus illustrated by a blonde bombshell-of-a-model, sauntering along the runway in the opening stark, white two-piece. Variations of the ‘new-vintage’ look were presented in darling degradé blush-pink-on-white and burning-yellow ochre colour combinations, with maximum impact being achieved through a punch of pop-art-turquoise stilletoes and the additional back-combed hair and wing-tipped make-up, courtesy of Sam McKnight and Charlotte Tilbury, respectively!

As the audience surrendered to subsequent models owning the catwalk, the retro theme was developed by the introduction of more traditional two-piece bathing suit ensembles comprised of bra-tops and full-briefs. One such example was in (virtually flourescent) purple/orange print, teamed with a jauntily-sported, single-breasted jacket, the fabric of which would be reprised in a natty black-belted jumpsuit. Animal print was also popular and featured on both string and bustier-bikinis and as a, wonderfully worked, mélange of patchwork-print.

Dsquared2-daywear encouraged the play-on-white, by incorporating capri pants, cotton blouses and a sartorially-stunning, single-breasted jacket. Texture was developed by way of toffee-toned leather shorts and an adorable three-quarter length, over-sized coat in coffee-brown. Black-and-white bouclé appeared in jacket and bustier-bikini form, with sequins denoting their take on the knee-length skirt.

When it came to dresses, we were in for absolute treats, with a selected off-the-shoulder gowns of the multi-print, kneelength, puffball variety, in a red/black/white palette and in a devastating midnight-black, fit-and-flare silhouette. Each piece was laden with acres of tulle underskirting, floating like flotsam on the ocean and, of course, had handbags to match! Of particular note, was the quirky usage of fabric paillettes in yellow/ taupe-tones, which caused the garment to look somewhat feather-like, yet distinctly attractive and extremely fun to wear!

For the sunset hours, composed relaxation was in order, with black silk blousons and bell-sleeved tunics paired with classic white, high-legged shorts. Notwithstanding, the chance to incorporate colour was never missed and the reprise of the blouson, a dream in tangerine, was confidently  off-set by highly mirror-embellished shorts. The journey continued with an ivory collarless jacket, scattered with gold beads from top-to-tail and the metallic trend evolved into a shimmering silver adaptation of the three-quarter coat, styled with a matching, Doris Day-èsque ‘pill-box’ hat!

It was left to the bikini-story to bring the show to a dynamic close, with a Barbarella-worthy black, cut-away, criss-cross swimsuit, building to a climax of a black-on-white bustier-bikini, which was the only example to have a ‘creeping-vine’ motif.

The finale vignette of the entire model line-up, topped-off a show which would, quite frankly, give the Punchdrunk site-specific theatre company a run for their money!!! Once Dean and Dan had, themselves, walked the measure of the catwalk to rapturous applause, the ride-of-a-show was over..

No matter what the start-time, this triumphant collection was above-and–beyond worth the wait!

©AFROW2013-2019 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

‘UN GRANDE CIAO ALLA BELLA CITTA ‘DI MILANO!!!!’…

…In other words…a great, big ‘HELLO’ to the beautiful city of Milan!

..Hearty congratulations to all you multi-linguists out there, if you worked that one out on your own…and to the Google-translators amongst you if you had a little help!!

Yes, the Fashion Week flotilla has moved on and moored its fleet-of-finery into the docks of the mighty Milan!

So, from today until the 23rd of September, you can expect to be wowed by the SS14 offerings of Gucci, Alberta Ferretti, Prada, Marni, MaxMara, Roberto Cavalli, Giorgio Armani, Versace, Trussardi, Moschino, Salvatore Ferragamo, Gianfranco Ferre and Emilio Pucci, to name but a few…and I haven’t even included shows for their diffusion lines in the list!!

Although based in Italy, our very own John Richmond will be adding a ‘bit of Brit’ to the proceedings and there will also be representation from Les Copains, Costume National and Jil Sander…but that is still only a drop in the ocean of couturiers due to display their creative wares!

Special attention should be paid to the new up-and-coming designer showcase on the final day, which will be Milan’s fashion forecast for couture talent upon whom we should keep our eyes firmly fixed!

Must dash, as the Simonetta Ravizza show is about to begin…but if you’re following the showtime schedule, do remember that mainland Europe is an hour ahead because you wouldn’t want to miss the next installments in all of those fashion-forward stories, even if it were by being fashionably late!

Apart from that, all that remains for me to say is….’Godere settimana della moda milanese!’…. Enjoy Milan Fashion Week!

Ciao a tutti!

Afrow.x.

©AFROW2013-2019 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

MASONBENTLEY: STYLE AND SUBSTANCE FROM A UNIQUE FASHION-DUO….

Barely have the curtains on a most resplendent London Fashion Week come down, than my head has been turned by the wondrous collection from design-duo, MasonBentley!

The brainchild of Anna Mason and Kate Bentley, the eponymous label was birthed in 2012, with the objective of ‘carefully selecting and sourcing vintage clothes to be re-loved for the modern wardrobe’*. The popularity of their brand of one-off pieces left savvy consumers wanting more and to that end, an idiosyncratic capsule collection was created in order to satisfy the rumbling style-stomachs of their ever-increasing number of supporters!

You need only peruse their blog to notice how much they are relishing every precious moment upon, what they call, ‘the journey’, as well as to quickly recognise how seamlessly their respective talents combine. Delve deeper into the collection and I’m sure you’ll agree with me that they are totally in the fast lane to exponential success!

Their design aesthetic is effortless glamour, which you can expect to see represented in timeless separates such as their ‘Harper’ blouse, alluring, both in white or black cotton-broderie anglaise fabric. Add the ‘Deneuve’ collar, for a perfect complement to the leg o’mutton-style sleeve and evoke a look with inflections of ‘elegant equestrian’. The ‘Hepburn’ skirt and ‘Audrey’ top are aptly- named, offering than a nod to the ‘Roman Holiday’-spirit of Audrey, herself (after she had the elfin cut!) and the beige/ ivory and black options make for ultimate versatility in the wardrobe of any woman.

Let it be known that MasonBentley have a delightful way with detailing but do not shy away from colour or print either! Such examples can be found in the range, from the ivory piping in the aforementioned ‘Audrey’ top and the precisely-positioned black horizontal stripes on the ‘Billie’ dress, to the ‘Dante Blouse & Belt’, the ‘Romy’ dress and the ‘Birkin’ bikini, flamboyantly adorned with ‘Royal Peacock Print’ in grey, fuschia pink and teal colourways, respectively.

A House signature must be their ‘trans-seasonal’* silk/ crepe-de-chine blouses, such as the ‘Macaroon’, available in shades of baby pink and ivory and with silhouettes suited to all body shapes, featuring flattering butterfly sleeves, as on the grey ‘Trilby’ blouse.

Prices ranging from £120** for the Deneuve collar, through to £340** for the silk/ crepe-de-chine blouses, competitvely reflect the high-quality of design and execution, however, I believe that in purchasing a garment from MasonBentley, you are getting so much more… The creative journey which we are all invited to share and to which we can all respond through their blog, and the love which clearly goes into manifesting a priceless, ‘total experience‘ are at the root of this rare gem of a design-partnership…

Long may the ever-increasing success of the MasonBentley legend continue!

©AFROW2013-2019 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

*Quotes from masonbentleystyle.com   **Prices correct at time of publication, from masonbentleystyle.com

MARIA GRACHVOGEL DESIGNS LEAVE YOU FLOATING ON AIR…

Maria Grachvogel is an utter genius when it comes to stylistic superlatives of length and volume and today’s show more than lived up to her global reputation.

Blouses were soft, sleeveless and silver-grey, trousers flowed powerfully, yet gracefully as tidal waves, jumpsuits were elegantly figure-embracing, with  ‘v’, ‘square’, and draped-necks and dresses were maxi-lengthed, columns of grace…

Any departure from her well-loved repertoire incorporated asymetry, most notably in a dazzling dress, the colours of which seemed to have been boldly applied free-hand. The relaxed mood was also illustrated by a tie-front, cross-over jacket, as well as a wonderful, grey leather blouson, masterfully cut, in defiance of the its usually, less pliable properties.

Prints, though digital, had an artisanal touch, seeing steel-grey stripes merging with oak-browns, coffee-caramels saturated into chocolate-browns and pastel-peach to add a subtle drama. A stand-out motif had the appearance of veins from the underside of a leaf and appeared upon skirt and blouse separates, as well as being echoed upon both black-on-white and sheer versions of a floor-sweeping dress.

A glorious gown of the afore-mentioned chocolate brown/ grey variety with a stunning, fishtail train was the last swathe of garment to close a show which, from start to finish, exemplified the polish, poise and versatility typical of Miss Grachvogel’s distinguished design flair and artistry.

Simply put, it was a sublime crescendo to a spectacular last day…

©AFROW2013-2019 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

LFW: SIMONE ROCHA…TOTALLY TONGUE-IN-CHIC!!!!

Ahh Miss Rocha, with your style, you are really spoiling us!!!

Now before you tell me… I know it’s Roch-a as in ‘Ma-MA‘, not Roch-a as in, well, Rocher, but I couldn’t resist it! Nor could I take my eyes off this collection, which was, at once, stunning, as well as scintillating!

First impressions?

The ‘Simone Rocha-girl’ is the ‘Chanel-girl’s’ naughty little sister!!! The opening black ensemble of a sleeveless top with pearl-embellished neckline, which delicately surfed the stomach, a knee-skimming skirt, sheer popsocks, and a twist on the quintessential ballet flat, again, accentuated with pearls, nigh-on shouted LOOK AT ME..NOW!’, on its way down the catwalk!

What followed was an edgy, yet, romantically-inspired journey, which would incorporate glistening, black, texturised jackets and trousers, adding depth and balance to the strength of looks. A semi-tonal shift to grey, facilitated floral motifs to shine upon knee-length dresses, with the gradual movement through the neutral palette made complete by a welcome blast of lightning-white. Models resembled paper dolls in dresses, the material of which, appeared to be the most delicately-crushed, lily-white petals. As if to conclude the theme, Miss Rocha stripped away any tonal suggestions whatsoever, presenting us with her take on the see-through mac, choosing, instead, to use a doily/ crochet motif as the point-of-interest. However, the colourful introduction of a luxurious moss green, three-quarter length, leather coat, reminded us not to be deceived by the apparent fragility of the looks which had gone before!

With the optical amuse-bouche delivered, the journey meandered through variations, on a brocade theme. Top-to-toe separates which glimmered beneath the lights, as sunrays settling upon the fresh, morning dew, were quickly followed by pieces which saw a reprise of pearls, unexpectedly outlining single-slash cut-outs. This surprise adornment soon took a more recognisable format, with golden pearls being applied around the neckline of a fabulous white coat.

The finale was a breathtaking way to end the tour, with the last three models wrapped in peach-hued, gossamer-like material, featuring pearl-encrusted cut-outs and pop-socks…It was as if they had just been taken down from the shelves of a high-end fabric shop, ready to be unfurled, or were fairy-tale brides, ensconced beneath the most ethereal wedding veils!

What we had here, ladies and gentlemen, was a masterclass in meekness… In other words, power under control, which, I believe, not only befits the ‘Simone Rocha aesthetic’, but also extends to her ability to harness her unique talent. A talent which she deftly uses to deliver gifts of exquisite designs, complemented by an irrepresible measure of wit, that can only be described as truly tongue-in-chic!

~

SIMONE ROCHA.COM ~ @Simone_Rocha_

©AFROW2013-2019 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

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A TWITTER-FAVOURITE WITH CAROLINE RUSH (CHIEF EXECUTIVE OF THE BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL)!