SPOTLIGHT ON: ‘KITTY FERREIRA UK’… AN EXTREMELY ‘GOODE’ BRAND!

‘You know it when you see it’, is a phrase which is often bandied-about, with such frequency, as to become cliché. However, let it be known, that in referring to ethical womenswear-brand ‘Kitty Ferreira UK’, no other phrase will fit-the-bill!

Living-the-dream of designing the range is Founder/ Creative M.D., Valerie Goode, and if ever a moniker described both a person and a mission, it is hers! As I type, the question ‘What qualifies this statement, Afrow?’, is undoubtedly winging its way through to my side of the Blogosphere… Well, my having spent a day-in-the-life with Miss Goode should serve as due qualification!

You see, last week, yours truly was given free-reign of ‘ The Ideal Home Show Christmas’ event, at Earl’s Court! Yes, another wonderful PR Company (in this case, that of ‘Incentive Media’), gifted me a press-pass for the entire 5-day duration and, for an ‘I.H.S Xmas’ newbie, it was AMAZING!!!

Imagine a Noughties-Narnia (except a lot warmer!), lit by an indoor aurora-borealis, a floor filled with stands, as far as the eye could see, scents saturating the atmosphere with the most divine Yuletide fayre and mood-music, apt for retail-merriment! The scene reverted this visitor into a jaw-dropped juvenile, in anticipation of being a tinsel-halo-wearing angel in the Nativity play and sharing memory-making, festive family-fun!

Now, Afrow-Family, follow me to Wednesday 14th, which I have come to address as ‘Kitty Ferreira Day’, in part, because her designs were runway-bound to the Ideal Home Show Christmas Catwalk for an exclusive showcase of exceptional UK design-talent and also because that evening, her collection was to be displayed at a Pop-Up Fashion Exhibiton, curated by online UK-fashion boutique, ‘London Ethnic’ and held at the exclusive private members club, ‘Apartment 58’.

Without further ado, I must explain the riches of Miss Goode’s ‘Kitty Ferreira’ designer label! Heartwarmingly named after her late Grandmother, whom she described to me in one of our many email communiqués, as being ‘fierce like a lion, soft like a cat’, the line comes with this familial brand-boldness, yet delicacy of a bespoke design-aesthetic, which is woven into the warp and weft of every bolt of fabric!

Engrained in the ‘Kitty Ferreira’ ethos, is the stalwart passion to produce high-end pieces, manufactured solely in the U.K, the carbon footprint of which is closely-monitored, due to her personally sourcing top-quality, upcycled materials. Otherwise destined for landfill, these same fabrics, are eco-dyed, in a variety of natural stains, with her latest derived from pomegranates and onion skins, as can be seen in her stunning SS14 garments. As with such tried-and-tested dyeing methods, the beauty of the resultant pieces stems from the drying process, which facilitates unique variations-on-a-theme. Thus, each will be a bespoke creation, perfectly reflective of she who chooses to buy and wear her own idiosyncratic example of craftsmanship.

Following in the tradition of all-things with a bespoke, there is an air of exclusivity to Goode’s goods, bucking-the-trend for batch-process uniformity, whilst helping to save the bucks, with purse-friendly prices! Not only does this serve to satisfy the ‘one-off template’ within us all,  but it is ever-more marvellous to see, at close-quarters, the fruition of harmonic parallels between the ideal of ethical manufacturing and the production of such timeless separates. Furthermore, the fast-turnaround of her ‘luxe-for-less’, limited-edition collections, offered in a rainbow of size-silhouettes, ranging from 6 to 26, only adds to their desirability, whilst perpetuating the element of having acquired something extra special, for one’s wardrobe. It is this desirability which has already seen celebrity-endorsement by such names as ITV Newscaster, Charlene White, and earmarks the trans-seasonal/ transferable glamour of a ‘Kitty Ferreira’ garment as a go-to option, as suited to a high-stakes work environment, as to the atmopshere of a restful afternoon tea or a playful party-vibe!

Pattern-cutting, provided by her highly-skilled assistant, Katie, is a dream-of-precision, underpinning the sublime tailoring which is present in the exquisite apparel. For example, a rich mustard-hued pant, with the most sumptuous pleating detail, is an utter triunph and a joy to see, styled with her sheer, silk ‘Saffron Shirt’ with the signature ‘notch’ pocket. In fact, it was this look, which all-but stole the Ideal Home Catwalk Show, and was one of many which had guests at the London Ethnic fashion showcase, flocking to meet-and-greet her! Having witnessed a selection of the collection in-motion, it is easy to see why so many sought to celebrate the fruits of her creative labour! There is no mistaking Miss Goode’s couturière-eye-for-detail, which is absorbed throughout the design, as expressed through a fine floral motif, here, or a high-necked front, balanced by a revealing backless ‘moment’, for the ultimate in effortless, elevated drama. The overall effect pronounces the ‘Kitty Ferreira Woman’ as one of distinct elegance, presence and allure, with a stylisitic self-awareness and an ability to fearlessly experiment with it.

As Valerie herself says, ”…fashion can tell a story not only based on style or an era, but based on values”*. Thus, the most wonderful element for me, is the fact that one can be safe-in-the-knowledge that a purchase from the line is not just another acquisition, which might, all-too-soon, be forgotten! No, a ‘Kitty Ferreira-wearer will always know that she has made an eco-friendly retail choice, not only in support of the best-of-British manufacturing, but also in contribution to the development and success of one of the best-of-British design-talents.

In Afrow’s words… ‘That’s not simply a Goode thing, but a great thing!’

©AFROW 2013-2019 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

* www.kittyferreira.co.uk  ~ www.londonethnic.com ~ www.idealhomeshow.co.uk ~ www.apartment58.com ~ www.incentivemedia.co.uk

Many thanks to Valerie for inviting me to such a special day and to Incentive Media for inviting me to such a special event!

I’M A ‘FASHION-EAST-ER’!

If you went down to the London-Fashion-Week-woods on September 17th, you were in for a BIG surprise…especially if you happened to go via the ‘Fashion–East’-End!

I, excitedly, took that detour, and as if I’d fallen down a man-hole on Main Street, rather than that of a Wonderland-rabbit, I found myself entering whimsical world of Hong Kong designer, Ryan Lo! It was, indeed, a cordial welcome into a rich and textural tapestry of creations, with (spoiler alert!) anthropomorphic models, made-up to appear as fairytale-foxes and princess-pussycats, to name but a few!

 A veritable treasure-trove of vintage-lace appliqué, fluttered against knee-skimming skirts, whilst also being delicately-layered, as tie-string tops, in a kaleidoscope of watercolours, such as dusky-pink, sweet-pea blue and champagne-yellow. Tulle came full-length, in a peach-blossom frock, with ballet-flounces, frothing beneath a mid-length overcoat (complete with ‘tail’), in antique-gold-on-white, and would develop into a gorgeous gilet, which undulated like the rarest, underwater coral.

The knitwear-story was akin to turning the pages of the most vibrant pop-up book, EVER!!! Bubblegum-pink party-pieces were ousted by cardigans in kiwi-green, with a ‘moo-cow’ motif and chocolate-brown, with a fantastic farmyard-scene, a fresh-and-fruity, strawberry-strewn sweater/ mauve micro-mini ensemble and (my pièce de résistance) a full-length, lime-green, crocheted-cape, bursting with sunshine-marigolds in full-bloom!

Before I knew it, the collection had come full-circle, with the finale look of a soft, baby-pink-on-white, horizontal-striped coat, in a darling ‘trapeze’ silhouette…A fond farewell was given to the animal theme, in the guise of a huge, ‘pussy-bow’ neck-fastening and although it was his last word in the show, I’m getting more- than-an-inkling that, with his highly-skilled ability to emboss his unique vision upon the runway, Ryan Lo’s superstar-story has only just begun…

©AFROW2013-2019 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

MFW: I’M READY-TO-WEAR ‘ERMANNO SCERVINO’!

Picture it…

…Backstage, models sit calmly, hair being tailcomb-teased, face being made exquisitely, Terry Barber-ready, whilst front-of-house, conversations clatter like talking-typewriters! Suddenly, a cry of ‘EHH-OHH!‘, loosely-translated as ‘SILENCE!‘, splits the air into pin-drop reverence…

 Now, imagine a host of supermodels, amongst them Alek Wek and Karolina Kurkova, leading a runway of risng-stars, with the aplomb of their 90’s predecessors and you’ll understand the significance of the Scervino brand. If you even dared to blink, you would have missed an almost endless-string of timeless looks, worthy of their own reference encyclopaedia! Whilst we had seen the ‘Pastel/ Metallic/ Midi-Maxi Length/ Column-Hourglass/ Embellishment’ stories, favoured in the vestments of fellow MFW designers, Scervino interpretations seemed to renew them.

For example, skirts took on ice-skater-like proportions, pleats were more than couture-concertinas, reframed as flitting-gaudets… and embellishments, whilst beaded and embroidered, were off-set in position and oriental in theme. Metallics were not simply silver, but gunmetal and gave a more experimental edge when used in conjunction with the traditional silhouettes. Yes, lemon, taupe, mint, black and white all featured, however, peacock added strength to blues and something in the way that peach was colour-blocked, gave it the power of a full-on-primary. Fabrics perused PVC, took a departure into denim, suede injected a new joie-de-vivre to the vestments and silk-taffetta was accompanied by satin-trim, which was a signpost, not only  to the superb eye-for-detail on display, but also an attention-to-distinctive-detail.

It is with this in mind, that I take you on a whistle-stop tour of the most unique moments.

PVC won my ‘Return-of-the-mac’ prize for being a funky piece of outerwear, printed in lemon-hued houndstooth! The award for ‘Best Use of Embellishment’ was a split decision between a taupe, tailored-jacket with cluster-beading, set on the inner-edge of the tuxedo-collar (which, incidentally, did win ‘Best Placement of Embellishment’), and a stunning gun-metal-coloured sweater, with a silver-bead-encrusted accent around the crew-neck.

The ‘Prize-for-Prettiest-Pleating’ had to go to an amazing, chalk-white, column-dress, gathered from shoulder-to-waistline, with its pleating gathering pace to the hem…all cunningly-accompanied by a thigh-high split, for epic Grecian glamour! Coming in a close second, was a black, hour-glass gown with crystal-embellished gaudets at the tail.

‘Best Floral Motif’ was shared (I know, I know, there should only be one winner..but, my made-up competition, my rules!)…. The two stand-out creations were an oriental spray-of-orchids, perfectly-placed upon a strapless peach dress, in a diagonal formation, from empire-to-hemline and a peacock-blue, fitted, scoop-necked, mini-dress, with florals, off-set, on either side of the bodice, spilling into the skirt. ‘Best New Silhouette’ was a shoe-in, for a black, lace, nehru-collared cape with asymetric-opening and credit for ‘Best New Fabric’ could only go to……DENIM!!! The ink-blue offerings of v-necked crop-top, short-pant and denim-lined, white jacket were utterly irresistible!

We’re nearly there now, so, drum-roll please… because it’s time for ‘Best-In-Fashion-Show’…….which was…wait for it……the glorious  Jackie-O-inspired, midi-length, silk dress and collarless-overcoat ensemble, both in that lightning white, effortlessly worn by the magnificent Alek Wek!!!! Congratulations!!!

So, there you have it, fashion-friends….A  whirlwind tour of a tour-de-force collection, which gave us a collation of attire, reprising the traditional with a directional twist.

It’s safe to say that I absolutely adored what I saw…and if you want to reconnect with looks of vintage-modernity, then the designs of Ermanno Scervino are a great place to start!

©AFROW2013-2019 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

 

MFW DELIVERS A FUTURE/ R-ETRO FASHION-FEST!!

Now, aside from pulling-off next year’s styles with poise and panache, the Milanese Fashion Week also has a penchant for providing ampitheatres as show auditoria! Never before have I witnessed collection-after-collection being displayed in such gargantuan spaces and it was no different at Etro!

The vastness became noticeably apparent when front-of-house assistants seemed to take on Borrower-like proportions as, flanked by mountains of onlookers, they peeled back the wedding-train of cellophane-covering from a glacier-white runway!

So done, so began a stream of Etro-consciousness of a distinctly paisley-inspired, retro feel! Colourways revolved around a pastel-blue/ mint-green/ coffee-cream/ lemonade-yellow/ powder-pink palette and were dreamt-up on jumpsuits, handkerchief-hemmed separates and dresses of midi and maxi options. Print-clashing proved popular and a truly inventive ensemble-for-the-eyes were a knee-length skirt with the aforementioned pattern, topped by a ‘tsunami-wave’ design. The antithesis, a veritable repertoire-in-rust included a midi-dress and skirt, both adorned with a black, ‘vine’ motif, which would be later presented magnified, upon a sheer blouse of the same shade. Metallics were also seen, with hints of gold, shot-through a particularly playful backless dress and a jumpsuit which looked as if it had leapt straight from the days of psychedelia!

Drapery was de-rigueur and artfully-incorporated as a ‘scarfed’-neckline, accompanied by a distinct love-of-layering, which was charmingly portrayed, tumbling into voluminous flares. Fringes, whilst exaggerated, were tastefully used to enhance plunging v-necklines and a single-strapped, ‘tube-form’ added extra interest to the dress silhouette. The label also showed a single-take on coats, it being of oversized ilk, in two-tone, mint-green and silver, a finishing touch which surely sets-out their optimistic stall for scorching  weather next year!

  So, I’m packing my bags with some of those splendid r-Etro spring/summer styles, because I, for one, want to be wherever they are in 2014!

©AFROW2013-2019 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

DSQUARED2: IN CELEBRATION OF THE MOVIE-STAR SIREN!

As a designer, you know that a show has gone down a storm when howling whoops of delight are audible from both back and  front-of-house!! After today’s Dsquared2 show, the identical-twin design-team of Dean and Dan Caten must surely be shouting the loudest!

Forget that the event was running half-an-hour behind the scheduled time, the buzz of anticipation from an audience, the size of which was comparable to the Burberry attendance, was palpable!

With a brassy blast of Mambo Kings announcing the imminent arrival of some spectacular style, we knew that we were being set up to depart upon the fashion-ride of our lives!!

First up, was a splash of showroom footage, in which models were either being fitted and dressed in the collection, or were dancing with the designers, themselves, in a tiki-hut!! The brief glimpse served as a tantalising teaser to what was to follow….which was a pitch black auditorium and a pinched, female voice, with an American accent, regaling the finer points of elegance, as if delivering a Public Service Announcement!!!

Then BANG! With the camera done, it was lights and action, accompanied by Elvis Presley entering the building, as ‘Bossa Nova’ was siphoned through the super-speakers!! The scene was set with an elongated tiki-bar, complete with bow-tied bartender, a stretch of runway which extended like a record-breaking length of taffy and models, ready in their first looks, to powerwalk the pass!

Oh and what looks they were! The Dsquared2 woman positively oozed Sophia Loren-allure, with lashings of Brigitte Bardot-boldness and Diahann Carroll- decadence! The story started with bustier/ corset- bikinis, harking back to the moulded shapes of lingerie and beachwear of yesteryear, thus illustrated by a blonde bombshell-of-a-model, sauntering along the runway in the opening stark, white two-piece. Variations of the ‘new-vintage’ look were presented in darling degradé blush-pink-on-white and burning-yellow ochre colour combinations, with maximum impact being achieved through a punch of pop-art-turquoise stilletoes and the additional back-combed hair and wing-tipped make-up, courtesy of Sam McKnight and Charlotte Tilbury, respectively!

As the audience surrendered to subsequent models owning the catwalk, the retro theme was developed by the introduction of more traditional two-piece bathing suit ensembles comprised of bra-tops and full-briefs. One such example was in (virtually flourescent) purple/orange print, teamed with a jauntily-sported, single-breasted jacket, the fabric of which would be reprised in a natty black-belted jumpsuit. Animal print was also popular and featured on both string and bustier-bikinis and as a, wonderfully worked, mélange of patchwork-print.

Dsquared2-daywear encouraged the play-on-white, by incorporating capri pants, cotton blouses and a sartorially-stunning, single-breasted jacket. Texture was developed by way of toffee-toned leather shorts and an adorable three-quarter length, over-sized coat in coffee-brown. Black-and-white bouclé appeared in jacket and bustier-bikini form, with sequins denoting their take on the knee-length skirt.

When it came to dresses, we were in for absolute treats, with a selected off-the-shoulder gowns of the multi-print, kneelength, puffball variety, in a red/black/white palette and in a devastating midnight-black, fit-and-flare silhouette. Each piece was laden with acres of tulle underskirting, floating like flotsam on the ocean and, of course, had handbags to match! Of particular note, was the quirky usage of fabric paillettes in yellow/ taupe-tones, which caused the garment to look somewhat feather-like, yet distinctly attractive and extremely fun to wear!

For the sunset hours, composed relaxation was in order, with black silk blousons and bell-sleeved tunics paired with classic white, high-legged shorts. Notwithstanding, the chance to incorporate colour was never missed and the reprise of the blouson, a dream in tangerine, was confidently  off-set by highly mirror-embellished shorts. The journey continued with an ivory collarless jacket, scattered with gold beads from top-to-tail and the metallic trend evolved into a shimmering silver adaptation of the three-quarter coat, styled with a matching, Doris Day-èsque ‘pill-box’ hat!

It was left to the bikini-story to bring the show to a dynamic close, with a Barbarella-worthy black, cut-away, criss-cross swimsuit, building to a climax of a black-on-white bustier-bikini, which was the only example to have a ‘creeping-vine’ motif.

The finale vignette of the entire model line-up, topped-off a show which would, quite frankly, give the Punchdrunk site-specific theatre company a run for their money!!! Once Dean and Dan had, themselves, walked the measure of the catwalk to rapturous applause, the ride-of-a-show was over..

No matter what the start-time, this triumphant collection was above-and–beyond worth the wait!

©AFROW2013-2019 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED