LAUNCH: ‘ANFRAY & ANFRAY’ ARE AN ‘INSEPARABLE’ DESIGN-DUO!

As a self-confessed “wiley wordsmith”, I see the narrative in all things. Nothing being exempt, it was with deep joy that I discovered a most beautiful storyline behind the debut ring collection from esteemed jewellery design-duo, “Anfray and Anfray”.

Given that circles engender themes of a timeless and endless nature, I had already prepared to discover their inclusion in the mosaic of creative inspiration. However, what I had not prepared for, was the palpable articulation of emotional profundity, stemming from the collaborative passion of the designers, themselves. The secret? Jean-François and Alena are a couple, which gives rise to the full-force of passion being emitted though every band of deluxe rose, white and yellow gold. Thus, the choice of launching the range in the beautifully bijoux space of Mayfair’s “Wolf and Badger” boutique, was not only perfect, but perfectly complementary in, both, lighting and interior design.

Beneath the dimmed, soft-focus glow, the pieces were perched upon crystal-clear plinths, with all of the regal glamour of Hollywood starlets, ready their close-ups! For some while, I touched nothing. I merely stood, simply, quietly, deciphering the code-of-elegance which the couple had proposed. My patience was rewarded, as everso gently, the cognitive shoots of the “Anfray and Anfray” “Inseparable” concept started to spring forth. So began my mental points-of-departure, as to the “Who, What, When, Where, Why and How”, enmeshed within each, potential, ring-owner’s storyline.

I flew around upon my creative cosmic-cloud, wondering about the long-distance lovers, who might be in need of a symbol of togetherness, as a heartfelt reminder of their unique connection… Perhaps they would select a two-colour gold combination, in order to signify the neverending unison of their two entities. What of the parents, keen to commemorate a life-landmark of a precious daughter, seemingly infant-to-adult, overnight… Might the overlapping, independently-rotating elements, reassure her that, no matter how grown-up, she would always be their little girl? With every turn of tactile beading, would the distinctive song of metal-against-metal convey the message of being unconditionally loved?

Just such internal sketches were enthusiastically discussed, firstly with Zoe Hutchinson, Director of “Platform”, the outstanding PR company, responsible for unveiling this inspired collection, and, once those scenes had been set aside to mature, with Alena and Jean-François. The vibrancy with which each expressed the intent to honour the interplay of being, at once, intrinsically-linked with another, whilst also an individual, rendered it easy to understand why I sensed such an over-arching aura of emotional profundity.

Beyond the thematic concepts, the co-creators import an intense sensibility of social consciousness, with a passion, equal to that of their aesthetic awareness. Thus, not only is their collaborative ingenuity further channelled through the responsible-sourcing of all materials and the utilisation of conflict-free diamonds, but this sensitivity also perpetuates through the backstory of the ring which is acquired and/ or gifted.

Having snorkelled-up from the depths of my thoughts, I took the time to point-and press ‘last looks’ at the assembled compendium of supremely hand-crafted jewellery and to absorb the flow of electric, creative energy. I reflected upon the “Anfray and Anfray” ability to distil and impart notions and emotions into, essentially, cold matter. I connected with the fact that they display what we all possess…the ability to infuse life into that which appears to be lifeless…How, to steep the inanimate, with the animate force of love, activates earnest memories, which can reverberate through the browsing-history of time.

Jean-Francois and Alena describe it as “being bound yet free”.

I couldn’t agree more and, as I left for my next event, I realised, in a heartbeat, that a part of an undeniably stylish, undeletable evening, to launch a stunning collection of unforgettable rings,  had already come, powerfully, full-circle.

www.anfray-anfray.co.uk ~ www.platform-creative.com ~ www.wolfandbadger.com

@ANFRAYANFRAY ~ @platform_LDN ~ @wolfandbadger

©AFROW2013-2019 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

‘STYLE HAPPENS SOONER, ON ‘LATER’!’

We have a lot to thank Mr Jools Holland for! Not only does he bring us the most eclectic of live, global musical offerings, from established and emerging artists, alike, but with them, come a plethora of stand-out, sartorial selections, from the style-spectrum! For instance, you’re as likely to see and hear the hauntingly melodic, ‘Amadou and Mariam’, bedecked in bold, traditional Malian dress, playing in the-round, as you are the infectiously-anthemic synth-pop of ‘M.T’, in their eponymous multi-coloured, tie-dye-tees!

Case-in-point has to be a recent episode, featuring, Goldfrapp, James Blake, Franz Ferdinand and Kanye West!

 Backlit in a pure-gold aura and engulfed, full-length, in a column of black chiffon-drapery, the ever-ethereal, Alison Goldfrapp, held the audience, spell-bound with her melifluously reed-like, vocal perfomance of ‘Annabel’. The timeless gown, simultaneously, captured her effortless, idiosyncratic grace, whilst also paying homage to SS14 runways, with its pintuck-peephole bodice.

The unnervingly-talented James Blake delivered an equally-classy rendition of the stunning ‘Retrograde’. With hair, windswept, in defiance of the stillness generated by his unfolding-wall-of sound, he was an example of understated style, surrendering to sonic substance. In a ‘1-800 Dinosaur’ T-shirt-and-jeans ensemble, Blake also seamlessly combined product-placement of his new record label and a pinpoint performance, with ease and flair.

In stark juxtaposition, was the riff and quiff-friendly, Franz Ferdinand. Already well-known for their unique fashion statements including the sharpest of Savile Row-silhouettes, the band showed that they had lost none of their couture-creativity, teaming the gusto of, lyrically, ‘right words’ with the ‘right action’ of donning fashion-forward Hawaiian-prints with rock-a-billy attitude! Very D-Squared-2!

Kanye West’s performance of ‘Bound To’, with the outstanding ‘Uncle’ Charlie (Gap Band) Wilson, more-than-referenced the fact that he had graduated, magna-cum-laude, from the School-of-FROW! The ‘College Drop-Out’ star stamped his artistic authority on the programme, with all of the swagger for which we have come to love him. Punctuating the pitch-black studio with dramatic spotlighting, which served to accente his choice of a laid-back, layering trend, a play-on-neutrals of black ribbed-tee and low-slung, loose-fit, trousers, was complemented by a three-quarter length, khaki parka and desert boots in a pop-of-camel-colour. The entire look was topped-off by the trademark, heavy-gold, diamond-set, belcher-link chain, de rigueur for ushering in SS14’s metallic forecast! Uncle Charlie was certainly in-the-house, with his own, distinguished, take on double-denim, accessorizing with shades, as blacked-out as the windows on a one-off, customised Bugatti! It was, undoubtedly, a fitting backdrop to the soaring, silky-smooth, vocal-runs and devastating musical prowess of such a living-legend of U.S Funk/R&B!

So, the next time you tune into ‘Later… with Jools Holland’, keep an eye out for a new class of ‘artist-interpretations’… I think you’ll find that, on closer inspection, they are, in fact, rather more original!

©AFROW2013-2019 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

I’M A ‘FASHION-EAST-ER’!

If you went down to the London-Fashion-Week-woods on September 17th, you were in for a BIG surprise…especially if you happened to go via the ‘Fashion–East’-End!

I, excitedly, took that detour, and as if I’d fallen down a man-hole on Main Street, rather than that of a Wonderland-rabbit, I found myself entering whimsical world of Hong Kong designer, Ryan Lo! It was, indeed, a cordial welcome into a rich and textural tapestry of creations, with (spoiler alert!) anthropomorphic models, made-up to appear as fairytale-foxes and princess-pussycats, to name but a few!

 A veritable treasure-trove of vintage-lace appliqué, fluttered against knee-skimming skirts, whilst also being delicately-layered, as tie-string tops, in a kaleidoscope of watercolours, such as dusky-pink, sweet-pea blue and champagne-yellow. Tulle came full-length, in a peach-blossom frock, with ballet-flounces, frothing beneath a mid-length overcoat (complete with ‘tail’), in antique-gold-on-white, and would develop into a gorgeous gilet, which undulated like the rarest, underwater coral.

The knitwear-story was akin to turning the pages of the most vibrant pop-up book, EVER!!! Bubblegum-pink party-pieces were ousted by cardigans in kiwi-green, with a ‘moo-cow’ motif and chocolate-brown, with a fantastic farmyard-scene, a fresh-and-fruity, strawberry-strewn sweater/ mauve micro-mini ensemble and (my pièce de résistance) a full-length, lime-green, crocheted-cape, bursting with sunshine-marigolds in full-bloom!

Before I knew it, the collection had come full-circle, with the finale look of a soft, baby-pink-on-white, horizontal-striped coat, in a darling ‘trapeze’ silhouette…A fond farewell was given to the animal theme, in the guise of a huge, ‘pussy-bow’ neck-fastening and although it was his last word in the show, I’m getting more- than-an-inkling that, with his highly-skilled ability to emboss his unique vision upon the runway, Ryan Lo’s superstar-story has only just begun…

©AFROW2013-2019 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

MFW DELIVERS A FUTURE/ R-ETRO FASHION-FEST!!

Now, aside from pulling-off next year’s styles with poise and panache, the Milanese Fashion Week also has a penchant for providing ampitheatres as show auditoria! Never before have I witnessed collection-after-collection being displayed in such gargantuan spaces and it was no different at Etro!

The vastness became noticeably apparent when front-of-house assistants seemed to take on Borrower-like proportions as, flanked by mountains of onlookers, they peeled back the wedding-train of cellophane-covering from a glacier-white runway!

So done, so began a stream of Etro-consciousness of a distinctly paisley-inspired, retro feel! Colourways revolved around a pastel-blue/ mint-green/ coffee-cream/ lemonade-yellow/ powder-pink palette and were dreamt-up on jumpsuits, handkerchief-hemmed separates and dresses of midi and maxi options. Print-clashing proved popular and a truly inventive ensemble-for-the-eyes were a knee-length skirt with the aforementioned pattern, topped by a ‘tsunami-wave’ design. The antithesis, a veritable repertoire-in-rust included a midi-dress and skirt, both adorned with a black, ‘vine’ motif, which would be later presented magnified, upon a sheer blouse of the same shade. Metallics were also seen, with hints of gold, shot-through a particularly playful backless dress and a jumpsuit which looked as if it had leapt straight from the days of psychedelia!

Drapery was de-rigueur and artfully-incorporated as a ‘scarfed’-neckline, accompanied by a distinct love-of-layering, which was charmingly portrayed, tumbling into voluminous flares. Fringes, whilst exaggerated, were tastefully used to enhance plunging v-necklines and a single-strapped, ‘tube-form’ added extra interest to the dress silhouette. The label also showed a single-take on coats, it being of oversized ilk, in two-tone, mint-green and silver, a finishing touch which surely sets-out their optimistic stall for scorching  weather next year!

  So, I’m packing my bags with some of those splendid r-Etro spring/summer styles, because I, for one, want to be wherever they are in 2014!

©AFROW2013-2019 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

MFW DAY 3 OFFERS COOL SOPHISTICATION FROM BLUMARINE…

If, like me, you are an aficionado of the home-makeover/ home-build genre of t.v. programmes, then you will already be aware of a clever little design-touch of adding mirrors, to give the illusion of increased space…

Gucci employed the method upon their catwalk and Blumarine went that extra mile, in constructing a floor-to-ceiling, mirrored wall, which subsequently made the low-lit, u-shaped runway look as if it went on for miles!!!

‘Sophistication’ was the buzzword, with a little bit of ‘edge’ thrown in to keep things cool! What better musical metaphor to use for the show, than to feed the mesmerising voice of Moloko’s Roisin Murphy into the vast space.

The stories came thick-and-fast, beginning with razor-sharp tailoring to be found in calf-length cut-offs, body-skimming skirts and a striking white jacket with slash, asymetric-opening and deftly-defined shoulders. (Now, we are not talking about power-dressing of the 80’s, here, more  an understated authority of the noughties, which we can all work!). The neutral black companion was heralded by a ‘sheer’ theme, depicted in delicate, cap-sleeved tops, apt for summer days, and a neat, leather, knee-length pencil-skirt, perfect for a balmy evening. Nigh-on floor-sweeping dresses, both sleeved and sleeveless, were luxurious, being débuted into the collection, with the contrasting white, floral, motifs overlaid onto the fine fabric.

Indeed, this was a neat segway into the ’embellishment’ element of the show, which saw the first inclusion in any presentation, thus far, of a butterfly, on a sparkling, knee-length dress. Later on, the design would be developed into a ‘metallic’ rendition with sequinned wings, strikingly-placed upon gossamer-gowns, to retain a lady’s modesty! Another welcome thematic entrée to Milan Fashion Week was the ‘polka-dot’, depicted in silver and, once more, overlaid to impressive effect, onto a black maxi-dress. This led into a stunning column-creation, featuring a fish-tail hemline, which was wittily accentuated by fastidiously-fastened appliqué in fabric, cut to mimic scales.

However, an iridescent-gold, knee-length dress, styled with a darkly-hued, tailored jacket, served to retain the harmonic adaptability of the trends, whilst also underpinning an enticing design-edge. This mood matured through an unusual, ‘paint-splash’ print, in red, white and black and would mark the beginning of a carefree, celebration of colour, revealed in a burnt umber, scoop-necked number and a garment so dazzlingly yellow that, aside its fitted, silk nature, you would believe it to, literally, be a sun-dress !

The finale wowed with sequin-studded bodices, which, when reprised against the sheer-black backdrop, would fill the pass with walking constellations and the ravishing, white feathered variation which followed, gave a goodbye-embrace to embellishent.

In all, the collection embodied inspired designs of accomplished dexterity, with looks as suited to the red-carpet, as they are the edgiest of streets-scenes…and if that sounds like you, then ‘BLUMARINE’ might just be the next label you put down, in capitals, upon your show-shopping list!

©AFROW2013-2019 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

DSQUARED2: IN CELEBRATION OF THE MOVIE-STAR SIREN!

As a designer, you know that a show has gone down a storm when howling whoops of delight are audible from both back and  front-of-house!! After today’s Dsquared2 show, the identical-twin design-team of Dean and Dan Caten must surely be shouting the loudest!

Forget that the event was running half-an-hour behind the scheduled time, the buzz of anticipation from an audience, the size of which was comparable to the Burberry attendance, was palpable!

With a brassy blast of Mambo Kings announcing the imminent arrival of some spectacular style, we knew that we were being set up to depart upon the fashion-ride of our lives!!

First up, was a splash of showroom footage, in which models were either being fitted and dressed in the collection, or were dancing with the designers, themselves, in a tiki-hut!! The brief glimpse served as a tantalising teaser to what was to follow….which was a pitch black auditorium and a pinched, female voice, with an American accent, regaling the finer points of elegance, as if delivering a Public Service Announcement!!!

Then BANG! With the camera done, it was lights and action, accompanied by Elvis Presley entering the building, as ‘Bossa Nova’ was siphoned through the super-speakers!! The scene was set with an elongated tiki-bar, complete with bow-tied bartender, a stretch of runway which extended like a record-breaking length of taffy and models, ready in their first looks, to powerwalk the pass!

Oh and what looks they were! The Dsquared2 woman positively oozed Sophia Loren-allure, with lashings of Brigitte Bardot-boldness and Diahann Carroll- decadence! The story started with bustier/ corset- bikinis, harking back to the moulded shapes of lingerie and beachwear of yesteryear, thus illustrated by a blonde bombshell-of-a-model, sauntering along the runway in the opening stark, white two-piece. Variations of the ‘new-vintage’ look were presented in darling degradé blush-pink-on-white and burning-yellow ochre colour combinations, with maximum impact being achieved through a punch of pop-art-turquoise stilletoes and the additional back-combed hair and wing-tipped make-up, courtesy of Sam McKnight and Charlotte Tilbury, respectively!

As the audience surrendered to subsequent models owning the catwalk, the retro theme was developed by the introduction of more traditional two-piece bathing suit ensembles comprised of bra-tops and full-briefs. One such example was in (virtually flourescent) purple/orange print, teamed with a jauntily-sported, single-breasted jacket, the fabric of which would be reprised in a natty black-belted jumpsuit. Animal print was also popular and featured on both string and bustier-bikinis and as a, wonderfully worked, mélange of patchwork-print.

Dsquared2-daywear encouraged the play-on-white, by incorporating capri pants, cotton blouses and a sartorially-stunning, single-breasted jacket. Texture was developed by way of toffee-toned leather shorts and an adorable three-quarter length, over-sized coat in coffee-brown. Black-and-white bouclé appeared in jacket and bustier-bikini form, with sequins denoting their take on the knee-length skirt.

When it came to dresses, we were in for absolute treats, with a selected off-the-shoulder gowns of the multi-print, kneelength, puffball variety, in a red/black/white palette and in a devastating midnight-black, fit-and-flare silhouette. Each piece was laden with acres of tulle underskirting, floating like flotsam on the ocean and, of course, had handbags to match! Of particular note, was the quirky usage of fabric paillettes in yellow/ taupe-tones, which caused the garment to look somewhat feather-like, yet distinctly attractive and extremely fun to wear!

For the sunset hours, composed relaxation was in order, with black silk blousons and bell-sleeved tunics paired with classic white, high-legged shorts. Notwithstanding, the chance to incorporate colour was never missed and the reprise of the blouson, a dream in tangerine, was confidently  off-set by highly mirror-embellished shorts. The journey continued with an ivory collarless jacket, scattered with gold beads from top-to-tail and the metallic trend evolved into a shimmering silver adaptation of the three-quarter coat, styled with a matching, Doris Day-èsque ‘pill-box’ hat!

It was left to the bikini-story to bring the show to a dynamic close, with a Barbarella-worthy black, cut-away, criss-cross swimsuit, building to a climax of a black-on-white bustier-bikini, which was the only example to have a ‘creeping-vine’ motif.

The finale vignette of the entire model line-up, topped-off a show which would, quite frankly, give the Punchdrunk site-specific theatre company a run for their money!!! Once Dean and Dan had, themselves, walked the measure of the catwalk to rapturous applause, the ride-of-a-show was over..

No matter what the start-time, this triumphant collection was above-and–beyond worth the wait!

©AFROW2013-2019 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED