MFW DAY 3 OFFERS COOL SOPHISTICATION FROM BLUMARINE…

If, like me, you are an aficionado of the home-makeover/ home-build genre of t.v. programmes, then you will already be aware of a clever little design-touch of adding mirrors, to give the illusion of increased space…

Gucci employed the method upon their catwalk and Blumarine went that extra mile, in constructing a floor-to-ceiling, mirrored wall, which subsequently made the low-lit, u-shaped runway look as if it went on for miles!!!

‘Sophistication’ was the buzzword, with a little bit of ‘edge’ thrown in to keep things cool! What better musical metaphor to use for the show, than to feed the mesmerising voice of Moloko’s Roisin Murphy into the vast space.

The stories came thick-and-fast, beginning with razor-sharp tailoring to be found in calf-length cut-offs, body-skimming skirts and a striking white jacket with slash, asymetric-opening and deftly-defined shoulders. (Now, we are not talking about power-dressing of the 80’s, here, more  an understated authority of the noughties, which we can all work!). The neutral black companion was heralded by a ‘sheer’ theme, depicted in delicate, cap-sleeved tops, apt for summer days, and a neat, leather, knee-length pencil-skirt, perfect for a balmy evening. Nigh-on floor-sweeping dresses, both sleeved and sleeveless, were luxurious, being débuted into the collection, with the contrasting white, floral, motifs overlaid onto the fine fabric.

Indeed, this was a neat segway into the ’embellishment’ element of the show, which saw the first inclusion in any presentation, thus far, of a butterfly, on a sparkling, knee-length dress. Later on, the design would be developed into a ‘metallic’ rendition with sequinned wings, strikingly-placed upon gossamer-gowns, to retain a lady’s modesty! Another welcome thematic entrée to Milan Fashion Week was the ‘polka-dot’, depicted in silver and, once more, overlaid to impressive effect, onto a black maxi-dress. This led into a stunning column-creation, featuring a fish-tail hemline, which was wittily accentuated by fastidiously-fastened appliqué in fabric, cut to mimic scales.

However, an iridescent-gold, knee-length dress, styled with a darkly-hued, tailored jacket, served to retain the harmonic adaptability of the trends, whilst also underpinning an enticing design-edge. This mood matured through an unusual, ‘paint-splash’ print, in red, white and black and would mark the beginning of a carefree, celebration of colour, revealed in a burnt umber, scoop-necked number and a garment so dazzlingly yellow that, aside its fitted, silk nature, you would believe it to, literally, be a sun-dress !

The finale wowed with sequin-studded bodices, which, when reprised against the sheer-black backdrop, would fill the pass with walking constellations and the ravishing, white feathered variation which followed, gave a goodbye-embrace to embellishent.

In all, the collection embodied inspired designs of accomplished dexterity, with looks as suited to the red-carpet, as they are the edgiest of streets-scenes…and if that sounds like you, then ‘BLUMARINE’ might just be the next label you put down, in capitals, upon your show-shopping list!

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MARIA GRACHVOGEL DESIGNS LEAVE YOU FLOATING ON AIR…

Maria Grachvogel is an utter genius when it comes to stylistic superlatives of length and volume and today’s show more than lived up to her global reputation.

Blouses were soft, sleeveless and silver-grey, trousers flowed powerfully, yet gracefully as tidal waves, jumpsuits were elegantly figure-embracing, with  ‘v’, ‘square’, and draped-necks and dresses were maxi-lengthed, columns of grace…

Any departure from her well-loved repertoire incorporated asymetry, most notably in a dazzling dress, the colours of which seemed to have been boldly applied free-hand. The relaxed mood was also illustrated by a tie-front, cross-over jacket, as well as a wonderful, grey leather blouson, masterfully cut, in defiance of the its usually, less pliable properties.

Prints, though digital, had an artisanal touch, seeing steel-grey stripes merging with oak-browns, coffee-caramels saturated into chocolate-browns and pastel-peach to add a subtle drama. A stand-out motif had the appearance of veins from the underside of a leaf and appeared upon skirt and blouse separates, as well as being echoed upon both black-on-white and sheer versions of a floor-sweeping dress.

A glorious gown of the afore-mentioned chocolate brown/ grey variety with a stunning, fishtail train was the last swathe of garment to close a show which, from start to finish, exemplified the polish, poise and versatility typical of Miss Grachvogel’s distinguished design flair and artistry.

Simply put, it was a sublime crescendo to a spectacular last day…

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