by A_F_R_O_W

An intimate, stone-clad, uplit, cocoon-like space was the perfect collaborative venue for the eye-catching brilliance of Gabriele Colangelo.

Having started his career at Versace and Cavalli, his pedigree was clear to see. If Scervino offered direction, then Colangelo directed what was a stunning, sculptural collection of living-origami.

A voice-over of French prose calmly set the rhythm to which models, clad in kimono-inspired creations, paced their runway walks. White served a new purpose, namely, a blank canvas upon which to express form and line. From the rounded shoulders, which seemed to be carved out of silk, to shift dresses, with cape-top bodices, the fabric willingly obliged to the demand of high-level cutting-craft.

The kimono silhouette took precedence in coat-collars and tunic-tops, evolving into chrysalis-shaped separates, the simplicity of which, belied the complexity of construction. However, no sooner had we been lulled into the security of curvature, than an assortment of angular items arrived, particularly, a pure-white gown, with opaque, tabard-bib and a sheer asymetric, split-front skirt.

Tonal variations were present-and-correctly balanced, ranging from see-through bodices in buttermilk, trouser-suits in steel-grey, jackets in midnight-blue and floor-length skirts in cocoa. A peephole, cut-away midi with an ‘exploding-raindrop’ motif and an ‘acid-etch’ print in contrasting grey/gold hues, developed the flow of colour, whilst also introducing more fluid pieces, such as a backless, full-length, oatmeal dress. Show-stoppers of choice were the finale looks of two more maxi-dresses, the first, silver-grey and kabuki-waisted, and the last ice-white, and masterfully-pleated.

As the line-up of luxury floated past, one-by-one, it was as if a row of modern-day Madame Butterflies had been born…what is certain, is that, thanks to Gabriele Colangelo, a new, star-collection in the sartorial-sky has also been birthed!